Our final morning in Nepal was a blur of goodbyes, packing (suddenly my pack felt incredibly heavy… does my Nepali sari really weigh that much!?), and finding a taxi driver who would agree to drive us to the airport at a reasonable price.
As we weaved and darted through the noisy, dusty and built-up traffic and I covered my mouth and nose with my scarf, I felt grateful that my lungs would have some respite in Japan from the chaos and pollution we’ve been breathing in ever since we arrived in Asia.
The airport was a breeze, we filled out the departure form – which was actually just the arrival form (I think they had run out of departure forms so anything was sort of going…) – queued up with a thousand other people and eventually had a departure stamp signed and put into our passports; we were no longer officially in Nepal.
Japan bound, via Malaysia on a 3 hour stop over (where we spent the entire time using free wifi and drinking delicious teh tarik in Old Town White Coffee – we’ve got this whole backpacker thing down-pat!), it took a total of 16 or so hours before we touched down early-morning in Osaka, Japan. I felt suddenly, overwhelmingly at home.
Customs was easy and soon enough we had another stamp in our passport and officially entered Japan. It may have been my second time here, but walking through the gates felt like I was both coming home and arriving here for the first time ever; I was so excited. So very, very excited.
With bags under our eyes, we were feeling tired but elated as we skipped through the airport to immediately get some Royal Milk Tea from one of the many vending machines. Royal Milk Tea…mmmmm.
We spent some time at the airport using the ATM machine, obtaining some maps and information at the tourist information counter, and – dare I say it – enjoying the luxury that is... a Japanese toilet. Anyone else who has had the joy of experiencing a Japanese toilet knows what I’m talking about, and after almost four months of scary squat toilets that often left me dry retching, these electronic wonders were a welcome change. The toilets even had a little TV in each of them. Winning.
Heading to the train station outside the airport, we were instantly greeted by some friendly people offering us free drinks; so accustomed to declining anything and everything from strangers, I said no thanks… Then almost immediately changed my mind. Starbucks has just introduced here something called “Origami Filters” for their coffee, and staff were giving out cups of free coffee as a promotion. Oh Japan, how I love you so SO much – you came to our rescue when we were both so exhausted and gave us wonderful customer service, friendly smiling people and delicious, delicious strong coffee.
Welcome to Japan.
We took the train from the airport to Namba station and dumped our backpacks into one of the coin lockers for the day before heading to Dotonbori Street – one of the famous streets in Osaka – to meet up with Hide; a Japanese man we met on the train in Agra. We’d arranged to meet him at 11:30am to go for lunch, but we got a little lost trying to find our way to Dotonbori and were a little late. Along the way we continually stopped people to ask for directions; it always amazes me how friendly people are – even those who speak little or no English are willing to assist. I love it.
Meeting Hide, together we walked through a side of Dotonbori we would’ve otherwise completely missed, amongst all the sounds and smells of busy Oskaka, surrounded by pachinko slot machine shops, cafes, takoyaki stands, dogs in fashionable outfits and people dressed up in mascot costumes, trying to get you to eat at their restaurant.
Hide took us to an okonomiyaki place that he said his friends and him used to visit during their years at university; a place we would’ve never known about or found otherwise. It was amazing; we were given our own room and sat on cushions on the floor. Hide ordered for us using a phone on the wall in our room and soon enough all the ingredients we could possibly think of were bought out to us on a big tray and the grill plate in front of us was lit and heated; we were going to cook these ourselves. Oh yeah!
Cooking the okonomiyaki was so much fun! We loved it, and Hide was such a good host to show us how it was done; he flipped those okonomiyakis like a true professional. We ate a mix of beef strips, vegetables, egg and stewed beef okonomiyaki, and a seafood one with calamari, prawns and vegetables on a bed of hokkien-like noodles; all doused in delicious okonomiyaki sauce and kewpie mayonnaise, nori flakes and smoked salmon flakes. So oishi (delicious)! We had such a great time cooking, such a wonderful welcome to Japan, and Hide was a lovely host.
We spent some more time walking and chatting with Hide; he took us to a big book shop with one very large manga selection, and along a strip of shops filled with cooking materials and goods, knives and anything else kitchen related, which we both really enjoyed (especially Jacob, who loved the manga and Japanese knives). Eventually, we said goodbye to Hide and spent the rest of our time wandering through the Dontonbori area and surrounds, taking in more of the shops and sights, the people and our surroundings.
We had some food at Yoshinoya, a chain restaurant that is famous in Japan for very cheap, quick and good Japanese food. It is very cheap – I paid a whopping 130Y – a whole $1.40AU – for a bowl of delicious Udon noodle soup and Jake had the specialty: 280Y gyu don (beef on rice.) Yep; this place is a winner, and the first of many to come lessons on “How to travel Japan on a super tight budget.” Yoshinoya, I can already tell, is going to be a staple during our three weeks here.
We walked through the malls and through Dotonbori, watching the people and the mechanical shop fronts with moving images and sculptures; the famous mechanical crab in full swing. We saw Osaka turn from day light to dusk, where the neon signs and thousands of lights began to turn on and flash and move and dart and make this whole area look even more magical and more exciting than in the day. Finishing off our day, we bought a “daifuku ice-cream” from a convenience store, and enjoyed the deliciousness that is Japan.
Taking a train from Namba Station, we collected our luggage that weighed so heavily on our backs, and headed for Umeda Osaka station, changing to the JR line once there. The railway map above the JR ticketing system had no English, and we couldn’t see anyone to ask. Standing there, pretending to understand what we were actually reading, a kind gentleman came and assited us with getting a ticket to the right place, on the right line. He was so helpful, and another example already – on just our first day in Japan – of how kind and polite the people here seem to be.
We met Keiichi – our host for the next two nights – at the “vending machines by the exit,” as I explained to him, and together we walked to his house, quite close by. Our first couch surfing experience in Japan – I’m excited!
Keiichi’s house is how I imagined Japanese houses to look inside; small but incredibly efficient. Keiichi offered us a Japanese beer and prepared for us a delicious, very simple dinner: cold noodles in a soy based sauce. It was really delicious, and I want to make it again! [Quite easy to make: boil Japanese-style thin noodles or soba noodles until cooked, then place in a bowl of cold water and ice. In a separate bowl, add some very light soy sauce, spring onion and a pinch of sugar, along with more ice cubes. Eat by adding a few noodles at a time to the sauce, immersing them in it then eating with choppu-stikku.]
It’s so nice to be welcomed into someone’s home and treated so well, and Keiichi seems like a lovely guy!
I can’t express how excited and happy I am to be here, and look forward to every moment I have here in Japan. I love this country, and it feels so incredible to be back.